A Regency Primer
By
Tami D. Cowden
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Pick up an historical these days, and chances are it is set in the Regency era. Or at least the cover will say it is. This is one hot time period right now, and it seems everyone is jumping on this fun bandwagon. As the Editor of The Regency Reader, I like the idea. But only if the book really is set in the Regency.
I recently received a review copy of a book by a well know author. The cover touts the story as set in the Regency. The use of the word "Regency" on the back cover was the only relationship this book had with that time period. On the very first page, a seamstress was threading the SEWING MACHINE! And the poor overworked dear was making dresses with hoops.
Sorry, folks, but sounds like this book is set at least about 50 years AFTER the Regency. I suspect this was marketing's fault, not the author's, but I was still disappointed. I might have read farther if the back cover hadn't lied to me.
So when or what is the "Regency?"
Traditional regency novels generally take place anywhere from 1800-1820, but the 'Regency" itself refers to the time period, from 1811-1820, when King George III of England was deemed permanently mad, and therefore unfit to rule. His eldest son, the Prince of Wales, later George IV, was given the responsibilities of kingship as Regent. Known as Prinny, members of the upper aristocracy had frequent social doings with the Prince Regent.
The Regency followed an age in English social history which had been very loose in
moral standards. Prinny was widely believed to have entered into a secret, invalid,
marriage prior to his state marriage to Caroline of Brunswick. His brothers, and even, it
was rumored, one sister, produced many illegitimate children. Another brother was reputed
to have murdered his valet.
Many of the Regency's older social lions still harked back to that freer period, but the
Regency was a precursor to the rigid Victorian age. Things were not so uptight that piano
"limbs" were covered with skirts for the sake of modesty, but the rules of
Regency society were known, and violations tolerated only in the highest of the high. In a
traditional regency, society may be considered a character in the book - the behavior of
the hero and heroine will be greatly influenced by what people might say. A lady,
particularly an unmarried one, was always at risk of compromise. A loss of reputation,
warranted or not, meant death to the possibility of a respectable marriage.
Clothing in the regency was very different from that period just before, and for women, from the following as well. No more elaborate hoops or powdered wigs of the 18th century - empire waists were all the fashion (the empire for which the style is named is that of Napoleon Bonaparte). Classical Greek styles influenced both décor and women's clothing; the lines were straight and only a little flowing. Muslins were worn for the day; silks and satins for evening. Lace overdresses were popular for ball gowns, and feathers were only for evening wear. Daring young ladies would dampen their petticoats, to reveal their slender figures even more. Outer wear might include a cloak for evening, and a pelisse - a short jacket - for day time. Bonnets were always worn outdoors. Riding attire took on a mannish style, with habits emulating military uniforms.
Men's fashions changed even more dramatically, with the beginning of the century seeing florid waistcoats, satin coats, knee breeches, clocked stockings and rings and fobs. The colors turned sedate, and by the end of the period, knee breeches had been forever replaced by pantaloons, and men wore primarily black superfine jackets (frock coats were Victorian, not Regency), with white linen shirts, and starched linen cravats. Men's jackets were so tight, the help of a valet was frequently needed to put it on. For the cream of the cream, jackets were made by Weston, and boots, polished to a mirror- like sheen, by Hoby. A single discreet stick pin might be found in the folds of the cravat, and perhaps a single plan fob for the watch. Outerwear was a coat similar to today's overcoats, except a greatcoat would have layers of short capes attached at the shoulders. Sixteen was the number for the dashing hero. Kid gloves and beaver hats completed the ensemble. Of course, a military uniform was always suitable attire for officers.
Socializing took up much of the time of the regency upper crust. Venetian breakfasts - parties that began about four in the afternoon - were popular. Al fresco parties generally involved bring all the furniture, plate and silver out on to the lawn - no ants at a regency picnic! Theater, opera, and parties such as routs, balls, soirees, musicales, and masquerades (considered a bit daring, and generally not for debutantes), filled the evenings. Mornings might be spent paying calls on acquaintances, or staying at home to receive them.
Much of the Regency period coincides with momentous international affairs - most
notably, of course, the Napoleonic Wars. Prior to 1809 or so, many English feared an
invasion by the French. Trafalgar, a naval battle at which the French were defeated and
Lord Nelson killed, put an end to those fears, but the land war waged on across Europe.
Americans are more familiar with the War of 1812, but to the British, those skirmishes
were of minor importance compared the threat of the French.
A substantial proportion of the male population served in the armed forces. A hero who has
been serving in the army likely served on the Peninsula - in Spain, where there were
several years of hard campaigning and many major battles. Waterloo, in the decisive battle
Belgium that saw an end to Napoleon's reign, occurred in June, 1815.
There are many loyal Regency readers who are happy to read longer historicals set in
the period. However, Regency readers know their history. If the details aren't right, they
probably won't read your next book.
Tami D. Cowden, editor of The Regency Reader has been reading Regency romances for
more than 25 years. She forgives, but never forgets, an author who gets the period wrong
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